Today’s valance was inspired by the most asked about window treatment on the blog. We took the basic concept of both the style and fabric combination and tweaked it for a client making two valances and one cafe curtain based on the inspiration curtain.
Today I’m sharing the basic steps for making this scalloped, board mounted valance.
Finished, this valance measures 49.5 wide x 18″ high.
After centering the rooster pattern, both vertically and horizontally, each section was cut 17.5″ wide x 25″ high and sewn together using a 1/2″ seam allowance. I chose to use a small self cording to separate the two patterns because I couldn’t find a flat trim I liked. Adding a small trim (like in the original inspiration photo) is a much easier alternative to separate the sections.
I stopped the cording 2-2.5″ from the bottom because of the next step…cutting out the scallop.
I always cut my scallop pattern out of the lining first. After measuring out the exact 16.5″ width of each section I cut the scallop 2-2.5″ at it’s highest point. Most often I pencil in the scallop on the lining and then cut it out. If you’re not comfortable doing this you can use a plate or charger to trace the curve for your scallop or create a pattern on paper before transferring the curve to the lining.
Once the lining scallop is ready and matched to the sections of the valance it is pinned in place and the valance is cut to match.
The pleats at each end were cut from the rooster floral. The width of this piece is based on the size of your board. This board was 2″ wide so the pleat section was cut at 7″ to form 3 folds including the 2 @ 1/2″ seam allowances.
Showing the lining side of the right pleat.
The left pleat.
Showing the lining side of the left pleat.
Now the lining and valance are ready to be sewn together following the curve of the scallop and using a 1/2″ seam allowance.
*For this valance I only sewed the lower hem line/scalloped edge leaving both end pleats and the top portion open.
The next step is to snip the seam allowance along each curve.
This step allows the curve to lay flat when turned right side out. You want to be sure to do this with any project that involves a sewn curve.
Turn valance right side out and iron seams flat.
Sew trim in place. I prefer to top stitch my trim in place but you can also use fabric glue if you prefer.
This is the top back portion of the valance.
Carefully measure the length of your valance. My valance is 18″ long (from the tip of the scallop to the top) so I ironed the entire width of my valance at this measurement.
Stitch valance and lining together to hold in place.
Measure 2.5″ of fabric (used to mount valance to board) and trim away excess.
Turn raw edge under 1/2″. (See photo below)
Now the top portion is ready to be mounted to the board.
Before attaching the valance to the board you’ll need to fold and iron the end pleats in place to fit the board. See this tutorial for more complete details on finishing the ends pleats.
I like to wrap each board in lining. This step is not necessary but gives the valance a very finished appearance.
Here you can see where the raw edges were turned under.
Line up the ironed crease along the edge of the board and staple in place.
Normally I apply staples parallel to the length of the board. For some reason I had a really hard time stapling into this board going parallel. Each staple was wonky and not going in smoothly. But each perpendicular staple went in perfectly! Go figure! I guess it was the grain of the wood.
The finished valance turned out great! I really like the look of the cording separating the sections.
Here you can see the desired result when I mentioned folding the end pleats.
Once the pleats were folded in place and I knew they were going to hang correctly I closed each end using iron on hem tape. I prefer to sew the ends closed but it’s really hard to get them perfectly sized during the sewing process.
We also made a coordinating valance using the buffalo check as our lining.
And of course the cafe curtain. Buffalo check is such a fun fabric to use in combination with other patterns.
Today’s tutorial shows the basic steps for this style of valance. Be sure to check out this tutorial for Making Your Own Board Mounted Box Pleated Valance for more in depth steps and details.
And as always, if you have any questions be sure to leave a comment below. I’ll be happy to answer any questions you may have.
Rooster Fabric – Saison De Printemps Bordeaux by Waverly
Black Buffalo Check – unknown